Tag: Oiso

Coming Home to the Flames: The Timeless Magic of Sagicho in Oiso

On By Kanariya EishiIn Educational, Japanese Culture, Japanese HistoryLeave a comment

Kia ora everyone- I’m finally back in New Zealand!

Earlier this month, I was lucky enough to celebrate Sagicho (左義長) while I was visiting my hometown, Oiso (大磯), Japan, and the whole experience felt both nostalgic and grounding!

The crackling of the bonfire, the scent of pine drifting through the freezing air, and the sight of everyone gathering to send off the New Year decorations and lucky charms from the previous year reminded me of how deeply these traditions shape the rhythm of the community.

Watching the flames rise against the winter sky made me feel connected to something timeless, and it was a beautiful reminder of why coming home always means so much to me.

This gorgeous fire festival, held in the Kitahama (北浜: ‘North Beach’) area of Oiso, is a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is celebrated to pray for the safety of one’s family and the health of the community (and also for a better handwriting if you were a calligrapher).

The Journey Begins: Ichiban Musuko (一番息子)

TV crew was there!

Though the bon fire part of the festival is held in January, the spirit of the festival begins much earlier. In early December, an event called Ichiban Musuko (一番息子; literally means ‘The First Son’) marks the start of the New Year season.

Local children go from house to house carrying Goro-ishi (ゴロ石)– a stone tied with a rope made of hay, which is offered to the local deity Saenokamisan (サエノカミサン) to pray for the healthy growth of boys.

As they move through the neighbourhood, the children chant wishes for the residents, such as praying for good health and marriage, and receive small monetary offerings. With this money, the children buy and eat tofu to ward off evil spirits and to ensure they don’t catch colds.  This tradition is linked to the legend of Yaobikuni (八百比丘尼; also know as Happyaku Bikuni), a nun who lived 800 years by eating mermaid’s flesh- obviously, its texture is similar to the one of tofu!

The Spectacle of Seetobaree (セエトバレエ)

The main event, known as Seetobaree*, takes place on the beach where nine massive structures as in the picture above are erected. These towers reach heights of 13-14 meters. They are intricately decorated with:

  • Onbe-dake (The bamboo in the middle)
  • Dharma dolls and lucky charms from the previous year
  • New Year’s calligraphy (Kakizome)

Around 6:30 in the evening, the towers are lit simultaneously from the “lucky direction” (Ehō; 恵方) of that year. As the flames reach toward the sky, participants roast dango dumplings on long bamboo poles in the fires.

* In my part of Oiso, it was called Dondoyaki (どんど焼き).

Yannagokko (ヤンナゴッコ)

Sorry about the bad photo quality!

As the bamboo towers begin to burn and fall, the festival reaches its most exciting phase: Yannagokko (ヤンナゴッコ). Young men dressed only in loincloths (fundoshi) gather from different districts to engage in a fierce ritual. They chant the Yanna Ondo (ヤンナ音頭) while performing a tug-of-war with a sled-mounted temporary shrine (Kari-miya; 仮宮) with evil spirits trapped inside. By pulling this shrine into the sea three times, the community symbolically drives away the spirits of plague and bad luck. The shrine is destroyed during this ritual.

It was my first time seeing this ritual, but honestly, it looks like a few half‑naked men in loincloths being dragged on a sled- quite a comical sight, even if it’s probably not meant to be 😁.

How do Japanese celebrate the New Year?

On By Kanariya EishiIn Educational, Japanese Culture, LifeLeave a comment

During my recent visit to Japan, I got to experience the entire New Year celebrations with my family. It was the first time in at least a decade to go through the entire routine that I once did every single year until I left my homeland when I was 19.

I am sure there are local and family variations, but here is how it is generally celebrated in my area:

Towards the end of December

Year-end Cleaning: We clean the entire house towards the end of the year. It is like the spring cleaning in the west, but we do this in winter instead. This is based on the concept of ‘kiyome’ (清め) or ‘cleansing’ before welcoming the new year.

Osechi Making: Osechi is a traditional Japanese New Year feast, which is basically an elaborate bento. Each item has a special meaning, wishing for health, prosperity, and happiness in the coming year. Traditionally, it was pre-cooked before New Year’s Day so that the family members did not have to cook for the first few days of the year to relax.

31 December

Soba Noodle Eating: We eat soba noodles to wish for health and longevity. In some areas in Japan, they eat soba noodles on 1 January instead. The toppings also vary depending on the area. In my family, we do this ‘ritual’ towards midnight, sometime around 11:00 PM.

Kōhaku Uta Gassen: In the evening, many Japanese families watch the Red and White Singing Competition (Kōhaku Uta Gassen) on NHK, our national TV. It is basically a concert that showcases the best singers in Japan.

New Year’s Day

Shrine Visit: Families visit their local shrine to pray for good luck and health. Many families visit shrines in the first three days of the year (sanganichi; 三が日), but it is my family tradition to visit our local shrine at 12:00 AM midnight.

First Sunrise Gazing (初日の出): After a short sleep, we get up at the sunrise to pray to the sun. I’d say it is more cultural than religious, but it is said to be auspicious to gaze at the first sunrise of the year.

Breakfast: We eat the osechi that we prepared towards the end of the previous year. We also drink otoso, which is sake with some medicinal herbs, to pray for good health and well-being for the year. It tastes aweful, by the way!

New Year Cards: New Year Cards (Nengajou, 年賀状) start arriving around 10:00AM. The number of the New Year cards is an indicator of your popularity. As I grew up, I only received 20-30 cards while my dad received 500 plus. People are moving away from this custom these days, though. Many youths just email or text on LINE, which is like the Japanese version of WhatsApp.

Otoshidama (お年玉): If you are still a child or a teenager, you receive some pocket money in a little envelope called ‘pochi-bukuro’ (ポチ袋). As I grew up, my Kansai (Western Japan) relatives tended to give me more 😁

Community Celebrations: Depending on the area you live in, there might be some community celebrations. In my hometown, a mikoshi palanquin (a portable shrine) is taken into the sea to pray for the water safety for the year.

I have created a YouTube video about this subject, so if you are interested, please visit my YouTube channel. Make sure to subscribe if you still haven’t!

Home Sweet Home Oiso No.2 [Tōkōin Temple 東光院]

On By Kanariya EishiIn Japanese Culture, Japanese History, Life, RandomLeave a comment

I have to say that one of the highlights from my recent Japan trip was Tōkōin Temple (東光院) in my hometown, Oiso.

Mind you, I am not at all a religious person.

I only visited this temple to pay respect to my uncle who passed on during the pandemic, but this temple really blew my mind and showed me what it is to adapt our old traditions to this ever-changing world.

As you would know, not taking off your shoes to enter a Japanese house is a cardinal sin.

If I’m allowed to be a bit passive aggressive right now, each time my NZ European family members and friends walk into my house with their shoes on, I’m internally very, VERY cross! (Now you know!)

This cultural rule is upheld even more strictly at places of worship such as shrines, temples, and even some churches in Japan.

But, as you can see in one of the pictures above (“Keep your shoes on” sign), this temple broke this sacred cultural law to make the sanctuary barrier free for the elderly and people with disability (you need to bend down to remove your shoes, which is hard for them).

I was born and raised in Japan and spent about 21 years of my life there, but it was the very first time to visit a temple that allows you to keep your shoes on… in the sanctuary!!!

They also removed tatami mattresses and placed chairs in the sanctuary so that people don’t have to sit in the seiza position. It is a seiza-free temple!!!

I don’t know any other temple that does this. Please comment below if you know any other temple like this one in Japan… This is that rare!

But what really surprised me doesn’t end here.

This temple has a cozy community space with a library which is completely open to the public- anyone can just walk in and use it to study, to work, up to you.

When my family entered the space, there were a lot of after-school primary school students, reading manga, playing games together, or doing homework.

Then joined one of the monks (who once was a boxer!), and they all started watching the Final of 2023 World Baseball Classic together!

As you may know, Japan beat US and won the championship this year 😁

Did I say that the temple also provides tea, coffee, hot lemon drink, and sometimes even snacks free of charge.

If you want to have some quiet time to meditate, there is space available, too, where you can do sutra copying (写経) or “shabutsu” (写仏), which is a meditative practice to trace pictures of Buddha and other Buddhist deities.

My son was really amused by the tracing activity and completed it in a few minutes- though it’s supposed to be done very slowly to contemplate.

The temple also works closely with doctors, nurses, social workers, psychotherapists to offer free help for those who cannot afford these kinds of services themselves.

They invite academics to do open lectures on non-Buddhist subjects like economics as well.

There are even more radical things they do, but I’ll stop here to not to bore you!

My learning from their adaptability is that traditional arts such as rakugo also have to keep evolving, adapting themselves to the time, here and now. I have to say this temple is way ahead of the world of rakugo.

Why Fishers in Oiso Do Not Catch Octopuses?

On By Kanariya EishiIn Educational, Japanese Culture, Japanese History, Random, TriviaLeave a comment

As I promised in the previous post, here is a very fascinating folklore from my hometown, Oiso.

In Oiso, fishers traditionally do not catch octopuses, and this is a folklore that explains why:

During the reign of Emperor Ōjin (270- 310), there lived a fisherman called Takonojo (蛸之丞; たこのじょう). Tako, by the way, means an octopus.

One day, when he was fishing as usual, he saw something glittering, drifting in the waves.

Lo and behold, it was a small octopus, and it began approaching Takanojo’s fishing boat!

The octopus crawled up onto his boat and suddenly began transforming into a shining statue of a Thousand-Armed Kannon (千手観音), which is said to be a manifestation of the Buddha’s compassion.

This is not the actual statue, but here is an example of a Senju Kannon. This Kannon is from the 14th century (Nanbokucho period/ early Muromachi period) and owned by the Tokyo National Museum.

This statue was first enshrined at Koma Temple (高麗寺) but moved to Keikakuin Temple.

Because of this legend, real Oiso fishers do not catch octopuses.

What puzzles me, though, is that Buddhism reached Japan in 538AD, which was well after this miraculous incident happened in my hometown.

Anyhow, no octopus carpaccio for us Oiso-ites 😁

Photo Credits

Senju Kannon

Tokyo National Museum, CC BY 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Home Sweet Home Oiso No.1

On By Kanariya EishiIn Japanese Culture, Japanese History, Life, Random, Trivia3 Comments

It’s 4:30AM.

Someone is making loud scraping noise right outside of our bedroom.

I peek through the curtains…

It’s a surfer, busily applying wax on his surfboard.

Then, I realise- I’m back home in Oiso!

My hometown, which is located 70km to the west of Tokyo, perhaps is one of the Top 10 destinations for the Japanese surfers.

The number of surfers per capita is abnormally high, and in summer the main beach literally gets filled with local and visiting surfers. It’s like the Shibuya Station crossing if you know what I mean.

Naturally, the town is full of the outdoor types, hippies, creatives and plain weirdos (like myself).

It’s a historical town, too, that once hosted 2 ex-Japanese Prime Ministers and 6 other PM’s who had their holiday homes there.

Some of you history-buffs may know that it was one of The Fifty-three Stations of the Tōkaidō during the Edo Period (1603-1867).

The Japanese literary giant, Toson Shimazaki, lived in Oiso, too, and Haruki Murakami still has one of his houses there (he’s rich).

I realised that I am describing it like a utopia, but it’s really a sleepy little town with a population of around 30,000 people. Most Japanese would just bypass right through unless they are surfers or history fans.

But to me this is my home, and I have a lot to talk about!

In the next few blog entries, I will be sharing about this town that only the locals know, including its local legends and folklores.

My back and shoulder are not doing great at the moment, so I’ll stop here for now.

See you next time!