Coming Home to the Flames: The Timeless Magic of Sagicho in Oiso

Kia ora everyone- I’m finally back in New Zealand!

Earlier this month, I was lucky enough to celebrate Sagicho (左義長) while I was visiting my hometown, Oiso (大磯), Japan, and the whole experience felt both nostalgic and grounding!

The crackling of the bonfire, the scent of pine drifting through the freezing air, and the sight of everyone gathering to send off the New Year decorations and lucky charms from the previous year reminded me of how deeply these traditions shape the rhythm of the community.

Watching the flames rise against the winter sky made me feel connected to something timeless, and it was a beautiful reminder of why coming home always means so much to me.

This gorgeous fire festival, held in the Kitahama (北浜: ‘North Beach’) area of Oiso, is a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is celebrated to pray for the safety of one’s family and the health of the community (and also for a better handwriting if you were a calligrapher).

The Journey Begins: Ichiban Musuko (一番息子)

TV crew was there!

Though the bon fire part of the festival is held in January, the spirit of the festival begins much earlier. In early December, an event called Ichiban Musuko (一番息子; literally means ‘The First Son’) marks the start of the New Year season.

Local children go from house to house carrying Goro-ishi (ゴロ石)– a stone tied with a rope made of hay, which is offered to the local deity Saenokamisan (サエノカミサン) to pray for the healthy growth of boys.

As they move through the neighbourhood, the children chant wishes for the residents, such as praying for good health and marriage, and receive small monetary offerings. With this money, the children buy and eat tofu to ward off evil spirits and to ensure they don’t catch colds.  This tradition is linked to the legend of Yaobikuni (八百比丘尼; also know as Happyaku Bikuni), a nun who lived 800 years by eating mermaid’s flesh- obviously, its texture is similar to the one of tofu!

The Spectacle of Seetobaree (セエトバレエ)

The main event, known as Seetobaree*, takes place on the beach where nine massive structures as in the picture above are erected. These towers reach heights of 13-14 meters. They are intricately decorated with:

  • Onbe-dake (The bamboo in the middle)
  • Dharma dolls and lucky charms from the previous year
  • New Year’s calligraphy (Kakizome)

Around 6:30 in the evening, the towers are lit simultaneously from the “lucky direction” (Ehō; 恵方) of that year. As the flames reach toward the sky, participants roast dango dumplings on long bamboo poles in the fires.

* In my part of Oiso, it was called Dondoyaki (どんど焼き).

Yannagokko (ヤンナゴッコ)

Sorry about the bad photo quality!

As the bamboo towers begin to burn and fall, the festival reaches its most exciting phase: Yannagokko (ヤンナゴッコ). Young men dressed only in loincloths (fundoshi) gather from different districts to engage in a fierce ritual. They chant the Yanna Ondo (ヤンナ音頭) while performing a tug-of-war with a sled-mounted temporary shrine (Kari-miya; 仮宮) with evil spirits trapped inside. By pulling this shrine into the sea three times, the community symbolically drives away the spirits of plague and bad luck. The shrine is destroyed during this ritual.

It was my first time seeing this ritual, but honestly, it looks like a few half‑naked men in loincloths being dragged on a sled- quite a comical sight, even if it’s probably not meant to be 😁.

The Stone That Split with a Single Stroke: Yagyū’s Ittōseki

Tucked away in the quiet village of Yagyū (柳生) in Nara lies a massive granite boulder, cleanly split down in the middle. Known as Ittōseki (一刀石)- literally means ‘One-Sword Stone’- this impressive landmark is steeped in legend.

It’s said that Yagyū Muneyoshi (柳生宗厳: also known as Sekishūsai; 石舟斎), the founder of the Yagyū Shinkage-ryū School of Swordsmanship (柳生新陰流), once mistook a tengu for an opponent during his training. With a single, decisive cut, he struck- only to find he had cleaved this very stone in two.

Recognise this scene from somewhere else? That’s right- it’s from Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba (鬼滅の刃), one of the most popular and commercially successful manga/ anime series of all time!

Though Muneyoshi doesn’t appear directly in Demon Slayer, fans may find this tale oddly familiar. The Ittōseki is widely believed to have inspired the iconic scene where Tanjiro slices through a massive rock during his training. For many, this connection has transformed the Yagyū village into a kind of pilgrimage site- a sacred ground where history, legend, and pop culture converge.

Whether you’re drawn by history or anime homage, the Ittōseki stands as a powerful symbol of discipline, myth, and the fine line between reality and imagination.

Photo Credit: Dad

Koizumi Yakumo and Nopperabo, the Faceless

If you’ve been following NHK’s hit TV drama Bakebake (The Ghost Writer’s Wife) like my parents, you already know how Japan’s rich tradition of ghost stories and folklore continues to captivate audiences nationwide. The drama, inspired by the life and works of Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo), has brought renewed attention to the eerie yet beautiful tales that shaped Japan’s cultural imagination.

For those unfamiliar with Hearn, he published Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things in 1904, a remarkable compilation of Japanese ghost stories. Before its publication, these tales had been passed down locally in various regions of Japan, but this volume immortalised them and introduced them to the rest of the country- and eventually the world. Mind you, the book was first written in English and only later translated into Japanese.

Without Hearn’s work, stories like Hoichi the Earless (耳なし芳一), Yuki Onna (Snow Woman; 雪女), Rokurokkubi (a long‑necked yokai; ろくろ首), and Mujina (Japanese badger/raccoon dog; ムジナ) might never have reached us in their now‑familiar form.

Mujina is the creature that transforms into the famous yokai known as Nopperabo, on which the rakugo story Nopperabo is based. In that sense, this rakugo piece would not have been born without Hearn’s influence.

Hearn himself- a Greece‑born British citizen- married a Japanese woman named Setsu and became a naturalised Japanese citizen. Before that, he had been married to an African American woman during his time in the United States, despite interracial marriage being illegal at the time. He was a true revolutionary, someone who recognised the hypocrisy of the system and chose to follow his heart.

If you’d like to know more about Nopperabo, I also have a video of my rakugo performance.

‘An Ordinary Life’ at Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

As we mark the 80th year since the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, An Ordinary Life— a video installation created by Fiona Amundsen and me for Christchurch Art Gallery—is currently on display at the Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art.

The work reflects real and imagined conversations with my late grandfather, an eyewitness of the destruction of the Nagasaki atomic bomb. We used rakugo as our medium of storytelling, incorporating zanshin, a concept from aikido, which Fiona practices (2nd dan black belt).

The exhibition runs until 15 September. If you happen to be in the area, please visit and take a moment to reflect on the importance of peace.

The world we live in, I believe, is not the kind of world those who departed in WWII envisioned. It feels overwhelming to try to change the entire world—but I can change myself, and perhaps a few people around me.

Am I walking a path of peace?

I want to become a more peaceful person, so I won’t disappoint my grandpa when I see him again in the next world—if such a place exists.

* Photos were kindly provided by my rakugo master, Kanariya Eiraku, who visited the museum during his recent trip to Hiroshima.

Uncover the Magic of Rakugo: A Beginner’s Guide to Japanese Comic Storytelling

Happy Lunar New Year! Wishing you and your family peace, happiness, and good fortune!

To celebrate this special occasion, I have decided to write a beginner’s guide to rakugo. It is based on an introduction video that I made for YouTube, but I thought a note that accompanies it would be good addition for you to deepen your understanding of rakugo 😊 So…

Have you ever stumbled upon this storytelling tradition that’s both ancient and strikingly modern? Enter the world of rakugo, the Japanese traditional art of comic storytelling that blends storytelling with theatrical flair. It’s more than just comedy; it’s a window into Japanese culture and a testament to the power of narrative (I dare say!). Hopefully, this guide will introduce you to the unique and exciting world of rakugo!

What Exactly is Rakugo?

At its heart, rakugo is a 400-year-old Japanese tradition of comic storytelling. While you might initially think that it might be like stand-up comedy performed sitting down, but it is actually quite different. It’s a form of narrative performance where the goal is to engage and captivate the audience, not just make them laugh. Rakugo stories can be incredibly diverse, ranging from lighthearted ghost stories and tragedies to fantastical tales, erotica, and even science fiction. I personally see it like a sitcom or an old-time radio show, delivered by a single storyteller.

Key Elements that Make Rakugo Unique

  • Traditional Meets Contemporary: Rakugo is both traditional and contemporary. Performers almost always wear kimono, honoring the traditions of the past, but the stories themselves can explore themes of the present and even the future.
  • Minimalist Staging: In the Tokyo (Edo) style of rakugo, performers use only two props: a fan and a tenugui (traditional Japanese towel). The fan, also known as ‘kaze’ (literally means ‘wind’) in rakugo circles, can be used to create sound effects or symbolise various objects like a calligraphy pen or chopsticks. The tenugui, also referred to as ‘mandala’, is a highly versatile prop that can represent anything from a book to a wallet or even a smartphone!

The Art of the Single Performer

Rakugo is performed by a single storyteller who takes on all the characters within the narrative. Very subtle head movements and shifts in gaze are used to differentiate between each character. The performer’s direction of gaze also indicates social status and whether they are indoors or outdoors.

  • Characters with higher social status are indicated by the performer looking stage right, while those of lower status are indicated by looking stage left.
  • Characters inside a building are indicated by the performer facing stage right while those outside always face towards stage left regardless of the character’s social status.

The Historical Roots of Rakugo

The origin of Rakugo is often traced back to Seigan Temple (誓願寺) in Kyoto. It’s said that a monk named Anrakuan Sakuden (1554-1642) began incorporating characters and anecdotes into his Buddhist sermons to keep his students engaged. His approach was a means of enlivening what might otherwise be considered dry religious teachings. He compiled a book called Seisuishou (醒酔笑) in 1623, marking a significant milestone in the history of rakugo.

Rakugo further developed in two major Japanese cities with regional differences:

  • Osaka/ Kyoto: Rakugo initially evolved as a lively street performance, incorporating music and sound effects.
  • Edo (Tokyo): In Tokyo, rakugo became more of a theatrical performance, focusing on the art of storytelling with minimal props.

Why Should You Experience Rakugo?

Rakugo is a unique experience, far removed from the typical Western theatrical fare. It’s not just a performance; it’s a cultural memory that blends storytelling, minimalist performance, and a connection to Japan’s history. Whether you’re seeking a different kind of comedy or an enriching cultural experience, rakugo offers a journey into a world that is both familiar and wonderfully unique… and sometimes VERY quirky!

If you prefer just watching the video… (maybe I should’ve put the video above, but hey I wanted you to read the article!)

Yaoya Oshichi (八百屋お七 1667- 1683)

Yaoya Oshichi (八百屋お七 1667- 1683) is one of the Japanese historical figures who have been immortalised by many novels, kabuki/ bunraku plays, movies and songs including a book called ‘Kōshoku Gonin Onna’ (好色五人女) by the literary giant, Ihara Saikaku (井原 西鶴 1642-1693).

The title of this book translates as ‘Five Women Who Loved Love’. It is a compilation of 5 tragic love stories. I am captivated by this book and have deep respect and empathy for these women who chose love in the time when choosing true love wasn’t an option.

The story began during a great fire of Edo. Oshichi’s family escaped to Kichijo Temple, and they stayed there as a temporary shelter. There Oshichi fell in love with a temple worker called Kichizaburo.

Oshichi’s family house and business (greengrocer) were rebuilt, so they moved out of the temple.

These two lovers kept on kindling their love regardless of many obstacles.

However, one night, Oshichi missed Kichizaburo so much that she could no longer tolerate their circumstance.

As a fire had united them for the first place, she decided to cause another fire herself, hoping this would bring them together once again…

Fortunately, the fire was contained quickly.

Back then, arson resulted in death penalty, and the legal age to be convicted for arson was 16.

The judge was a kind man that he tried to save her by pretending that she was only 15:

“You must be 15 years old, are you not?” “No, I am 16 years old, Sir.”

Then, the judge asked her again:

“You must be 15 years old, are you not?”

Without picking up the hint, Oshichi answered, “I am 16 years old, Sir” once again.

Therefore, she was convicted and burnt at the stake.

Meanwhile, Kichizaburo had fallen sick and only learned about her death 100 days later.

Devastated by the passing of his love, he became a well-respected monk, and served the poor and even used his own money to build a bridge for the community.