Coming Home to the Flames: The Timeless Magic of Sagicho in Oiso

Kia ora everyone- I’m finally back in New Zealand!

Earlier this month, I was lucky enough to celebrate Sagicho (左義長) while I was visiting my hometown, Oiso (大磯), Japan, and the whole experience felt both nostalgic and grounding!

The crackling of the bonfire, the scent of pine drifting through the freezing air, and the sight of everyone gathering to send off the New Year decorations and lucky charms from the previous year reminded me of how deeply these traditions shape the rhythm of the community.

Watching the flames rise against the winter sky made me feel connected to something timeless, and it was a beautiful reminder of why coming home always means so much to me.

This gorgeous fire festival, held in the Kitahama (北浜: ‘North Beach’) area of Oiso, is a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is celebrated to pray for the safety of one’s family and the health of the community (and also for a better handwriting if you were a calligrapher).

The Journey Begins: Ichiban Musuko (一番息子)

TV crew was there!

Though the bon fire part of the festival is held in January, the spirit of the festival begins much earlier. In early December, an event called Ichiban Musuko (一番息子; literally means ‘The First Son’) marks the start of the New Year season.

Local children go from house to house carrying Goro-ishi (ゴロ石)– a stone tied with a rope made of hay, which is offered to the local deity Saenokamisan (サエノカミサン) to pray for the healthy growth of boys.

As they move through the neighbourhood, the children chant wishes for the residents, such as praying for good health and marriage, and receive small monetary offerings. With this money, the children buy and eat tofu to ward off evil spirits and to ensure they don’t catch colds.  This tradition is linked to the legend of Yaobikuni (八百比丘尼; also know as Happyaku Bikuni), a nun who lived 800 years by eating mermaid’s flesh- obviously, its texture is similar to the one of tofu!

The Spectacle of Seetobaree (セエトバレエ)

The main event, known as Seetobaree*, takes place on the beach where nine massive structures as in the picture above are erected. These towers reach heights of 13-14 meters. They are intricately decorated with:

  • Onbe-dake (The bamboo in the middle)
  • Dharma dolls and lucky charms from the previous year
  • New Year’s calligraphy (Kakizome)

Around 6:30 in the evening, the towers are lit simultaneously from the “lucky direction” (Ehō; 恵方) of that year. As the flames reach toward the sky, participants roast dango dumplings on long bamboo poles in the fires.

* In my part of Oiso, it was called Dondoyaki (どんど焼き).

Yannagokko (ヤンナゴッコ)

Sorry about the bad photo quality!

As the bamboo towers begin to burn and fall, the festival reaches its most exciting phase: Yannagokko (ヤンナゴッコ). Young men dressed only in loincloths (fundoshi) gather from different districts to engage in a fierce ritual. They chant the Yanna Ondo (ヤンナ音頭) while performing a tug-of-war with a sled-mounted temporary shrine (Kari-miya; 仮宮) with evil spirits trapped inside. By pulling this shrine into the sea three times, the community symbolically drives away the spirits of plague and bad luck. The shrine is destroyed during this ritual.

It was my first time seeing this ritual, but honestly, it looks like a few half‑naked men in loincloths being dragged on a sled- quite a comical sight, even if it’s probably not meant to be 😁.

The Stone That Split with a Single Stroke: Yagyū’s Ittōseki

Tucked away in the quiet village of Yagyū (柳生) in Nara lies a massive granite boulder, cleanly split down in the middle. Known as Ittōseki (一刀石)- literally means ‘One-Sword Stone’- this impressive landmark is steeped in legend.

It’s said that Yagyū Muneyoshi (柳生宗厳: also known as Sekishūsai; 石舟斎), the founder of the Yagyū Shinkage-ryū School of Swordsmanship (柳生新陰流), once mistook a tengu for an opponent during his training. With a single, decisive cut, he struck- only to find he had cleaved this very stone in two.

Recognise this scene from somewhere else? That’s right- it’s from Demon Slayer: Kimetsu no Yaiba (鬼滅の刃), one of the most popular and commercially successful manga/ anime series of all time!

Though Muneyoshi doesn’t appear directly in Demon Slayer, fans may find this tale oddly familiar. The Ittōseki is widely believed to have inspired the iconic scene where Tanjiro slices through a massive rock during his training. For many, this connection has transformed the Yagyū village into a kind of pilgrimage site- a sacred ground where history, legend, and pop culture converge.

Whether you’re drawn by history or anime homage, the Ittōseki stands as a powerful symbol of discipline, myth, and the fine line between reality and imagination.

Photo Credit: Dad

Koizumi Yakumo and Nopperabo, the Faceless

If you’ve been following NHK’s hit TV drama Bakebake (The Ghost Writer’s Wife) like my parents, you already know how Japan’s rich tradition of ghost stories and folklore continues to captivate audiences nationwide. The drama, inspired by the life and works of Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo), has brought renewed attention to the eerie yet beautiful tales that shaped Japan’s cultural imagination.

For those unfamiliar with Hearn, he published Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things in 1904, a remarkable compilation of Japanese ghost stories. Before its publication, these tales had been passed down locally in various regions of Japan, but this volume immortalised them and introduced them to the rest of the country- and eventually the world. Mind you, the book was first written in English and only later translated into Japanese.

Without Hearn’s work, stories like Hoichi the Earless (耳なし芳一), Yuki Onna (Snow Woman; 雪女), Rokurokkubi (a long‑necked yokai; ろくろ首), and Mujina (Japanese badger/raccoon dog; ムジナ) might never have reached us in their now‑familiar form.

Mujina is the creature that transforms into the famous yokai known as Nopperabo, on which the rakugo story Nopperabo is based. In that sense, this rakugo piece would not have been born without Hearn’s influence.

Hearn himself- a Greece‑born British citizen- married a Japanese woman named Setsu and became a naturalised Japanese citizen. Before that, he had been married to an African American woman during his time in the United States, despite interracial marriage being illegal at the time. He was a true revolutionary, someone who recognised the hypocrisy of the system and chose to follow his heart.

If you’d like to know more about Nopperabo, I also have a video of my rakugo performance.

Uncover the Magic of Rakugo: A Beginner’s Guide to Japanese Comic Storytelling

Happy Lunar New Year! Wishing you and your family peace, happiness, and good fortune!

To celebrate this special occasion, I have decided to write a beginner’s guide to rakugo. It is based on an introduction video that I made for YouTube, but I thought a note that accompanies it would be good addition for you to deepen your understanding of rakugo 😊 So…

Have you ever stumbled upon this storytelling tradition that’s both ancient and strikingly modern? Enter the world of rakugo, the Japanese traditional art of comic storytelling that blends storytelling with theatrical flair. It’s more than just comedy; it’s a window into Japanese culture and a testament to the power of narrative (I dare say!). Hopefully, this guide will introduce you to the unique and exciting world of rakugo!

What Exactly is Rakugo?

At its heart, rakugo is a 400-year-old Japanese tradition of comic storytelling. While you might initially think that it might be like stand-up comedy performed sitting down, but it is actually quite different. It’s a form of narrative performance where the goal is to engage and captivate the audience, not just make them laugh. Rakugo stories can be incredibly diverse, ranging from lighthearted ghost stories and tragedies to fantastical tales, erotica, and even science fiction. I personally see it like a sitcom or an old-time radio show, delivered by a single storyteller.

Key Elements that Make Rakugo Unique

  • Traditional Meets Contemporary: Rakugo is both traditional and contemporary. Performers almost always wear kimono, honoring the traditions of the past, but the stories themselves can explore themes of the present and even the future.
  • Minimalist Staging: In the Tokyo (Edo) style of rakugo, performers use only two props: a fan and a tenugui (traditional Japanese towel). The fan, also known as ‘kaze’ (literally means ‘wind’) in rakugo circles, can be used to create sound effects or symbolise various objects like a calligraphy pen or chopsticks. The tenugui, also referred to as ‘mandala’, is a highly versatile prop that can represent anything from a book to a wallet or even a smartphone!

The Art of the Single Performer

Rakugo is performed by a single storyteller who takes on all the characters within the narrative. Very subtle head movements and shifts in gaze are used to differentiate between each character. The performer’s direction of gaze also indicates social status and whether they are indoors or outdoors.

  • Characters with higher social status are indicated by the performer looking stage right, while those of lower status are indicated by looking stage left.
  • Characters inside a building are indicated by the performer facing stage right while those outside always face towards stage left regardless of the character’s social status.

The Historical Roots of Rakugo

The origin of Rakugo is often traced back to Seigan Temple (誓願寺) in Kyoto. It’s said that a monk named Anrakuan Sakuden (1554-1642) began incorporating characters and anecdotes into his Buddhist sermons to keep his students engaged. His approach was a means of enlivening what might otherwise be considered dry religious teachings. He compiled a book called Seisuishou (醒酔笑) in 1623, marking a significant milestone in the history of rakugo.

Rakugo further developed in two major Japanese cities with regional differences:

  • Osaka/ Kyoto: Rakugo initially evolved as a lively street performance, incorporating music and sound effects.
  • Edo (Tokyo): In Tokyo, rakugo became more of a theatrical performance, focusing on the art of storytelling with minimal props.

Why Should You Experience Rakugo?

Rakugo is a unique experience, far removed from the typical Western theatrical fare. It’s not just a performance; it’s a cultural memory that blends storytelling, minimalist performance, and a connection to Japan’s history. Whether you’re seeking a different kind of comedy or an enriching cultural experience, rakugo offers a journey into a world that is both familiar and wonderfully unique… and sometimes VERY quirky!

If you prefer just watching the video… (maybe I should’ve put the video above, but hey I wanted you to read the article!)

How do Japanese celebrate the New Year?

During my recent visit to Japan, I got to experience the entire New Year celebrations with my family. It was the first time in at least a decade to go through the entire routine that I once did every single year until I left my homeland when I was 19.

I am sure there are local and family variations, but here is how it is generally celebrated in my area:

Towards the end of December

Year-end Cleaning: We clean the entire house towards the end of the year. It is like the spring cleaning in the west, but we do this in winter instead. This is based on the concept of ‘kiyome’ (清め) or ‘cleansing’ before welcoming the new year.

Osechi Making: Osechi is a traditional Japanese New Year feast, which is basically an elaborate bento. Each item has a special meaning, wishing for health, prosperity, and happiness in the coming year. Traditionally, it was pre-cooked before New Year’s Day so that the family members did not have to cook for the first few days of the year to relax.

31 December

Soba Noodle Eating: We eat soba noodles to wish for health and longevity. In some areas in Japan, they eat soba noodles on 1 January instead. The toppings also vary depending on the area. In my family, we do this ‘ritual’ towards midnight, sometime around 11:00 PM.

Kōhaku Uta Gassen: In the evening, many Japanese families watch the Red and White Singing Competition (Kōhaku Uta Gassen) on NHK, our national TV. It is basically a concert that showcases the best singers in Japan.

New Year’s Day

Shrine Visit: Families visit their local shrine to pray for good luck and health. Many families visit shrines in the first three days of the year (sanganichi; 三が日), but it is my family tradition to visit our local shrine at 12:00 AM midnight.

First Sunrise Gazing (初日の出): After a short sleep, we get up at the sunrise to pray to the sun. I’d say it is more cultural than religious, but it is said to be auspicious to gaze at the first sunrise of the year.

Breakfast: We eat the osechi that we prepared towards the end of the previous year. We also drink otoso, which is sake with some medicinal herbs, to pray for good health and well-being for the year. It tastes aweful, by the way!

New Year Cards: New Year Cards (Nengajou, 年賀状) start arriving around 10:00AM. The number of the New Year cards is an indicator of your popularity. As I grew up, I only received 20-30 cards while my dad received 500 plus. People are moving away from this custom these days, though. Many youths just email or text on LINE, which is like the Japanese version of WhatsApp.

Otoshidama (お年玉): If you are still a child or a teenager, you receive some pocket money in a little envelope called ‘pochi-bukuro’ (ポチ袋). As I grew up, my Kansai (Western Japan) relatives tended to give me more 😁

Community Celebrations: Depending on the area you live in, there might be some community celebrations. In my hometown, a mikoshi palanquin (a portable shrine) is taken into the sea to pray for the water safety for the year.

I have created a YouTube video about this subject, so if you are interested, please visit my YouTube channel. Make sure to subscribe if you still haven’t!

Superstitious Japanese: Luckiest Days of the Year

I have to say that Japanese are superstitious.

I have a large stack of the lucky charms that my dear mother in Japan have sent me over the last 20 plus years.

We avoid numbers like 4 and 9 because 4 (四 shi) rhymes with death (死 shi) while 9 (九 ku) rhymes with suffering (苦 ku).

When I turned 44, my mum sent me heaps of lucky charms to ward off bad luck. I can predict that I’ll be bombarded with some more lucky charms when I turn 49 next year.

Having said that, I grew up more of a cynical sceptic, taking after my dad.

So I thought, but I recently realised that I am actually both sceptic and superstitious- just like the rest of Japan.

Most of us say that we are non-religious, but we love visiting shrines, temples, and even churches and vaguely believe in the unseen world. We are not atheists as some westerners say.

Since I started learning about the traditional Māori calendar called maramataka, I’ve got really curious about our own traditional calendar, and I’ve been learning about it for the last few months.

First, look at the Japanese calendar of this month (June 2024) below. Most of our calendars tell us the luck of each day.

For example, 24th June 2024 is a Taian (大安), one of the luckiest days, and many Japanese weddings are held on a Taian.

On the other hand, 17th June 2024 is a Butsumetsu (仏滅), and it’s the unluckiest day in Japanese calendar. Most couples avoid this day to get married.

As I grew up, I’d always thought Taian was the luckiest day, but I have recently learned that there are luckier days in the year.

It is called Tenshanichi (天赦日 てんしゃにち), which only happens 5-6 times a year. It is believed that all the gods rise up to the heavens and forgive all the sins of people on this day.

When Taian and Tenshanichi overlap, it is even more auspicious.

There is another lucky day called Ichiryumanbaibi (一粒万倍日 いちりゅうまんばいび), which literally means “the day one seed turns into 10,000 seeds”.

It is a good day to start a new project.